Outlaws of Triune
Keeping track of the weight of objects is tedious and frustrating, so in this game each character can only carry 20 things on their person and in their pack. Any Bonus Dice Gear in a character’s inventory is considered equipped and applicable, following natural logic (you can’t wear 2 helmets). If you absolutely must haul more junk around, each thing carried beyond 20 is worth a die of Encumbrance. These dice are added to opposed rolls to do just about everything except walking and talking. Some types of items can be stacked and collectively only count as 1 item: coins, ammunition, and Tools of the Trade (Risus p. 2) for example.
A Note On Weapons
Unlike in other games, weapons are equal for the most part in this game regardless of size and type. Larger weapons do not strictly ‘do more damage’ or anything so simplistic, and no weapon affects dice in any way unless it is specifically Bonus Die equipment and thus of finer craftsmanship or technologically/magically enhanced . Weapon properties are mostly situational in nature and should follow natural rules of logic. For example, characters with lighter weapons will generally act before those with heavy ones, though a wound inflicted by a battleaxe may be much more severe than that of a kitchen knife. Larger weapons may also be better for parrying and have a greater reach, whereas small ones may be concealable or able to be thrown. Large weapons do have the benefit of being generally more intimidating, but they almost always cost more to produce as well.
The difference in weaponry is predominantly based on the conditions of a fight. Unarmed punching and kicking is generally at a disadvantage to a broken beer bottle, which is at a disadvantage to a knife. So unless otherwise stated in a cliché:
unarmed < improvised weapon < martial weapon (each division represents a 1d6 advantage)
Weapons will break, characters will be disarmed, and some weapons may be illegal in certain areas, so the smart player would do well to utilize his surroundings. In order to fight well unarmed, a character must have a description involving unarmed combat or brawling in his active cliché. In order to fight well with improvised weapons, he must have a description involving brawling. If those requirements aren’t met, the character is considered to be ‘without proper tools’ and fights at half his active cliché. To illustrate the point and continue the barfight model, if two characters enter unarmed combat with proper clichés there is no change in dice. But if one picks up a bottle or chair, he now gets an extra die because he is at an advantage with an improvised weapon. If that same character drops the chair and picks up a knife, he then gets two extra dice because it would become much more difficult for his opponent to attack without getting injured.
Fist – unarmed weapon, nonfatal, good for when there’s nothing else around
Crowbar – improvised weapon, good for breaking stuff like crates and grates and plates
Beer bottle – improvised weapon, good for drinking and smashing over a guy’s head
Hunting Knife – good for stabbing and gutting stuff
Whip – long reach, nonfatal, good for disarming and tripping
Katana – very sharp, good for cutting things in half
Silver longsword – good for killing vampires and supernatural beasties
Revolver – 6-shot, takes magnum rounds, good for blowing holes in stuff
Steambow – 10-shot, autofire crossbow, takes pressurized steam, good for shooting really fast
Goggles – good for keeping sand out of your eyes
Thief gloves – open tipped fingers with a lockpick stitched in. Neat!
Shoulder pad – offers a little protection to one side
Armored jacket – a favorite of bikers, light and offers decent protection
Breastplate – great protection, deflects bullets (from your chest anyway)
Power armor – nearly invincible protection, increases strength, extremely heavy